The sewing machine has removed much of the drudgery of home sewing. But its use doesn’t lessen the necessity of skill in handwork. No machine can finish ends of belts, collars, sew on trimmings, fastenings, and like work and therefore the finish has much to try to to with the overall appearance of a garment.
Types of Machines
All the prominent makes of stitching machines were invented within the decade following Howe’s patent in 1846. The 2 chief sorts of machines are the lock stitch, using double thread. Therefore the chain or loop stitch, employing a single thread.
Whatever the make of machine it should be run in accordance with the principles accompanying it. The worker should familiarize herself with the directions for setting and threading the needle, winding the bobbin, regulating the strain. Therefore the stitch and everyone other technicality of the actual machine, she has got to operate.
Agencies of the varied machines usually have skilled workers to offer instruction to beginners. While it’s not always an economy of your time to use the attachments for hemming, tucking, etc., Unless such work is to be done, it’s worthwhile to understand the way to use them if desired. The maximum amount or more skill is required for neat machine work as for hand sewing. Results won’t be satisfactory without careful basting.
Care of the Sewing Machine
The machine should be kept well oiled, free from dust and gum and it should he run evenly. Just in case it becomes “gummed” a drop of kerosene on the parts that are oiled will cut the gum. Remove the shuttle and run the machine rapidly for a flash. Then wipe off all the kerosene and oil the machine carefully with good machine oil—only the simplest should be used. A machine should be wiped thoroughly before any work is placed upon it.
Needles and Thread
As in hand sewing, needles and thread should be selected with care. A blunt or bent needle should never be used, it should have a fine sharp point and therefore the eye should be sufficiently large to hold the thread easily. The needle and thread should be suitable for the fabric to be sewed.
The glazed thread should never be utilized in a machine. the simplest quality of thread and silk should be purchased but merely enough for immediate use because it loses strength with age. Chiefly due to the action of the dyes and chemicals. Even white thread may become “tender” from the chemicals utilized in bleaching it. Sewing silk and cotton should be kept during a closed box to exclude the sunshine and air.
For sewing cotton or linen, the simplest cotton thread should be used. Woolen, silk, and velvet should be stitched with the simplest machine silk. The thread should match the fabric in color. Cotton thread fades or loses its brightness when
exposed to the sunshine, therefore for stitching which will show it’s always better to use silk. The thread on the bobbin should be wound evenly and punctiliously to make sure a good stitch and therefore the tension of both threads should be equal. Otherwise, the stitch won’t be perfect.
As a lock stitch machine requires two threads while in hand sewing just one is employed. The 2 needn’t be as coarse because of the single thread. For ordinary home sewing, underwear, thin gowns, and therefore the like, No. 70 to No. 100 are going to be found satisfactory. The finer thread could also be used when the materials demand it, but no coarser than No. 50 should be utilized in the machine, and this only with the coarsest material.
Much time could also be saved in fastening the threads at the ends of tucks, hems on sheets, towels, etc., by careful manipulation of the machine. For instance, on sheets, begin to stitch along the hem at the selvage, or if the top of the hem is over-sewed, begin an in. from the sting and stitch the hem towards the selvage. Then lift the presser-foot so on turn the work, and retrace the little bit of stitching, continuing across the entire hem.
When the top is reached, release the presser foot, turn the work, and stitch back for an in. or more within the same line, as was done at the start of the hem. By this method the threads are fastened far more easily and quickly than by drawing them through on to the incorrect side and tying or sewing them by hand and, of course, it’s more satisfying than the
“shop” way of cutting them off short. Tucks or seams could also be fastened within the same way. If a fine thread is employed the double stitching at the ends is hardly noticeable.
Bias Side Next Feed
When stitching a seam having one bias and one straight side, let the bias side come next to the feed, that is, on the underside. this is often especially important in thin materials. If the fabric is extremely sheer, strips of sentimental paper—newspaper will account ordinary purposes—should be sewed within the seam. This may ensure a seam-free from puckers and when finished the paper is often pulled away easily.
Stitching Gathers – Sewing Machine
In sewing gathers on a band they ought to also come next to the “feed,” because it takes up the side next thereto a touch faster than the top. When the bias, or cross-way side of the seam. Gathers are next to the “feed” the fabric runs along
smoothly, but if the straight side is towards it there’s apt to be a pucker. Stitching is often done more easily on the proper of the presser foot with the majority of the fabric lying to the left. The tendency of the “feed” or teeth is to crowd the get rid of the sting also as forward and therefore the stitching could also be guided better on the proper side.
All straight seams should be stretched to the complete extent of their straight edge up stitching because the work passes under the presser foot.
When an outsized amount of machine sewing is to be done. Such as white goods, sheets, pillowcases, and underwear—it may be a good decision to do all the basting and handwork first and keep the machine stitching for a rainy or a humid day. Because the thread is then less apt to interrupt. A current of air or a breeze from an open window on a dry day will often cause the thread to snap. For an equivalent reason, the machine should never stand near the hearth or radiator.